Friday, July 25, 2008

A Namibian Birthday

A Namibian Birthday
So I’ve been having a series of weeks where I’m tired, been traveling too much, and just want to spend time with American friends. I’ve skipped school twice (once unsuccessfully—yes, they came to my house looking for me), and I’ve been disillusioned with my secondary projects. As I suspected, they flourished in the beginning only to disspate within, oh 2 weeks. Sigh. Guess salsa club is a no go. However, they still like the Spanish and English classes.
Just when you think noone really cares you’re here, including yourself, you have a birthday. I’m 25 today and here’s what’s happened so far.
7:00 Went to school late teachers sang happy birthday to me as I came in.
7:40 Kids sang happy brithday to me.
9:00 Ate cake (Mr. K made for me), cookies (yes, chocolate chip—I made them myself), cookies somebody bought for me. It was nice.
9:30 performance by community AIDS group that I am not a part of, nor did I know existed
Also received several homemade cards from the kids.
2:00 Played cards with about 20 kids. Damn they are SO good at memory, they kicked my ass. A few girls combed my hair into the ‘fro it gets when it's combed, while another child kept plucking out some of my arm hairs and putting them on his arm. Oh, Namibia.
4:00 Sent the kids away for some solitude. Am online now.
7:00 Dance—haven’t gone yet tho. It's only 5pm here, but I fully intend to teach them the electric slide. Woo.

Overall, not depressing at all. Except that my 20s are half over! (And this whole year of my life, I'll be in Namibia! That's the only thought that makes me want to leave . . .)

Tomorrow is Sport day, and then on Sunday I have to hike in to Windhoek again for medical check-ups.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Hard Days

June was not an easy month.
--Only other white people were assaulted and robbed.
--Kindergardener was killed (possibly by own mother) and thrown in sewage tank.
--I was robbed at knifepoint (again) in Windhoek. I’m on cellphone #3.
--My mirror broke. I bought a new one and someone sat on it, so it broke before I could even get it home. Not a good sign.
--My toilet is not functioning properly.
--Still haven’t got any reimbursements for electricity.
--Suitor # 3 is in love with me even though I said, “Don’t waste your time, I don’t like you” to the kid’s face.

I came to Africa for several reasons:
1. Learn another language
2. Challenge myself
3. Experience something new
4. Figure out what Africa is about, like with AIDS etc.
5. Find out if I like all of the 3rd world or just Latin America
6. Eliminate any subconscious racism

Here’s the Verdict:
1. Nope. Not going to happen. I’m done.
2. Yes. In many more ways than I ever thought. Like how to deal with constantly being a victim of crime. Or how to live in a dangerous city. Or how to deal with Namibian crap all the time.
3. Yes. In many more ways than I ever thought.
4. Yes. I get it now.
5. Yes. I love Latin America. Namibia is just too hard to really love. But that’s not to say that there won’t be some things I will truly miss.
6. No. If anything I am becoming more racist. When I see black men I just want to avoid them because chances are they are going to rob me or hit on me.

On another note:
Secondary projects are coming along ok. English class is so far a success. AIDS club, not so much, mainly because I don’t know what I’m doing. Dance club is tomorrow. Woo.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Problems!

SUITORS
What’s nice about Namibia is I can be totally, brutally honest with people and not have to worry about hurting their feelings. This is because they think I am lying. Like I can say, “Go away, I don’t want to talk to you right now” and they will just go away and come back later like nothing happened. Or I can say, “No, I will not marry you. Ever.” And the guy will go away and just come back later to propose again.
This leads me to:

RETURN OF TOOTHLESS GOAT FARMER
So, Baster Mr. O is back. Here’s a brief snippit of our conversation:
BMO: I want to have a revelation with you.
Me: What is a revelation?
BMO: A relationship.
Me: No.
BMO: Why?
Me: Because I don’t want to.
BMO: But I love you.
Me: I don’t love you.
BMO: You love me!
Me: I do NOT love you.
BMO: Do you want to go for the weekend with me?
Me: No.
BMO: But I love you.
Me: I do not love you. I will not ever love you.
BMO: Why?
Me: Because.
BMO: You don’t like me?
Me: No.
BMO: Ok, this will not affect our friendship. Totsiens.

WHAT was that?
I knew I was mean to men, but geez, this experience is making me downright hostile.

D-Town DRAMA
So, more from the ongoing saga that is D-town.
Last week, the white-guy-who-owns-the-town was broken into. He and his mother were beaten badly and robbed. Uh, scary!
Then, this week a kindergardener dies, and was apparently murdered!
They found the 3 year old in the sewage tank for the school. What a way to go. But rumors say the child did not drown because there was no water in his lungs. They are saying that he died before being thrown in the sewage drain. So, that would be murder . . .
Of course these things happen in the US, but since I've been here I've personally met rapists, child rapists, girls who have been raped, people who have been assaulted, children who have been abused, thieves, filandering husbands, child abusers, and wife abusers. In the US we have these things, but its on a much larger scale, and we are good at hiding things. I've probably met all of the above in the US, but wouldn't know it unless I was their close confidant. In the village you can't hide a damn thing. Everybody knows, including the wierd american volunteer. So I guess it's hard to judge then if the situation is worse here or even better than in the US.

THE ONE BIG PROBLEM
This may sound trivial after the aforementioned events, but the biggest problem facing me is shopping weekends.
When I got my site assignment and found out I was the only one whose shopping town was Windhoek, I knew then it was going to cause problems.
There is a store in my town, but the only thing it has in the way of produce is a few moldy onions. I need vegetables!
Free transport with teachers leaves directly after school on friday and comes back on Sunday. Since Ms. H left, there is not enough space for all the teachers in the cars.
Paid transport is (?) available from Dordabis to Windhoek via hitchhiking (I will investigate this weekend). I’ve only hitched back to Dordabis, and it is not always reliable. Better to come with teachers.
Most importantly, once I get to Windhoek, I have no where to stay.

SOLUTIONS?:
Solution One—travel with teachers always and stay at their houses.
Benefits: certainly the cheapest way to spend a weekend, assured ride home
Disadvantages: awkwardness of staying with people I don’t know well, namibian food, namibian music videos all day (boring!), limited mobility around the city, need to take taxis to go to town, stay in katutura which is none too safe so I have to stay inside all the time, sometimes ppl don’t talk to me.
In the end, the disadvantages have really got me down. I’d rather pay than stay at an awkward house where I feel like a burden.

Solution Two—travel around to Okahandja/Mariental for the weekend
Benefits: good company, it’s fun, there are things to do in town, can steal more movies / music, vent about Namibia
Disadvantages: cost of travel, having to hike alone, having to carry bedding, getting back to Windhoek late makes it a prob to hike back to Dordabis, no time for errands in WHK, can be rather expensive depending on what we do.

Solution Three—Stay in a hostel for the weekend
Benefits: Freedom to enjoy the city, good food, warm showers, everything is within walking distance, able to get errands done and do what I want without interrogation.
Disadvantages: VERY expensive in the end because I have to buy food and board, none too safe to be walking around by myself at night, stay with weird people in the room, sometimes runs out of hot water, people getting up/getting in at all hours, snoring, staying with all men awkwardness.

Solution Four—hiking in on Saturday, staying over at hostel
Benefits: Reduces cost of Solution three while retaining most of the benefits.
Disadvantages: None too safe to be walking around by myself at night, stay with weird people in the room, sometimes runs out of hot water, people getting up/getting in at all hours, snoring, staying with all men awkwardness, have to wake up early, not guaranteed to actually arrive in WHK before shops close, miss out on things only open on Friday like the library/art gallery.

POTENTIAL Solution Five—stay with colleagues family in Khomasdal
Benefits: Free place to stay, a few free meals, possibly some friends???
Disadvantages: have to take taxis, staying with random ppl, could be awkward, less freedom to do what I want.

POTENTIAL Solution Six—a little bit of everything
Benefits: all of them
Disadvantages: all of them, but at least it varies them up a bit. I can tolerate all these disadvantages in small portions, but not all the time every time.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Winter

WINTER
So, it’s winter. And it’s cold here. I bought a heater and the thing doesn’t work! Great . . .
Another 2 weeks before I go back to return it.

SAME OLD SAME OLD
Kids exhaust me and are the reason for me still being here. I figured out the teaching thing now. So that makes my life 8 million times easier. But it’s still not easy.

SECONDARY PROJECTS
Secondary projects are getting a sloooooooooow start.
Starting Dates:
This week—Window of Hope Begins, Finish Library Organization, Begin Computer Classes with Teachers
Next week—Library Assistant trainings
End of June—Class trainings (how to use library), Life Skills Training
Beginning of July—Interest Session for Community Projects
End of July—Begin Community Projects

CONCERT
In DC on September 6 there will be a concert/fundraiser for HIV AIDS in Namibia. All the famous Namibian artists will attend (Gazza, Sunny Boy, etc). Personally, I'm not too keen on popular Namibian music, but if you're interested here is the website:
http://www.namibiaaidsawareness.org/
Perhaps I should explain some things about Namibian music. There are only a couple of artists recording music in Namibia, so they have developed strong followings which are almost like gangs. You can only be a supporter of Gazza OR of the Dogg, not really of both, although you can like both kinds of music. Popular Namibian music sounds like American rap except usually less grody, more repetitive, and half in Oshiwambo or another African language. The artists are heavily influenced by R&B and hip hop artists from the states. Then there is native music. Nama music is heavily influenced by German polka. Otjiherero music is the best sounding I think, although the keyboard beats might get tiring.

Nothing much to say besides I’m doing ok.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Updated Wish List

All is well.

Thanks to all those who sent things! I greatly appreciate it, and can use everything you can send! Some people are still wondering what to send, so here is my updated wish list:
1. Colored paper/construction paper--any kind of colored paper will do. I swear it does not exist in this country.
2. School scissors
3. Chalk
4. Stickers
5. Things for my raffle--pencils, erasers, small toys, whatever.

And for me:
1. Music. Anything. Just no heavy metal, rap, or damara music.
2. TV shows on DVD. Anyone with TIVO? I'll watch whatever you give me.
3. Chocolate chip cookies
4. Laffy Taffy
5. M&Ms

Thanks once again.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Feels like home

Back at site. It feels like home. Finally.

PC is two separate lives:
Life one: Training, weekends, and vacations with PC buddies. Feels just like college, study abroad, and sometimes tourist trips with friends. Like college, its chill, but somehow fun even though you’re not doing anything besides watching movies and eating crackers and peanut butter. This is what I will miss most when I go back. This is the Keep-you-sane part of Peace Corps.
Life two: Me in my village, only white person who lives in Dordabis proper. I’m constant entertainment for others. The daily grind of going to school. There are serious ups, like sunsets, or goat babies, or when my kids come to visit me. Then there are serious downs like homesickness, wanting to murder kids, dealing with everything Namibian (taking forever to do things, wild chaos, focus on appearances). This is the roller coaster, life-changing part of Peace Corps.

Random thoughts:
I remember reading in someone’s blog that the PCVs liked to look back and see what they looked like at Staging because we all looked so different. I didn’t really believe I’d look different. But now my hair is the longest its been since sophomore year of high school, and it’s the blondest its been since I was, what, 4? I’m getting a great farmers tan. I’m also fatter than I was when I left. So . . . they were right. Also, we all looked so young then, and it was only 7 months ago!

Latin America was easy to love—all I had to do was walk off the plane. Everything was wonderful from the first (music, people, food, culture). But Africa is like that troubled child in your class. Most times you are wrestling with it, trying to get it not to sabotage itself, clashing heads, and suddenly there are moments of great love. Or like an unfamiliar taste in your mouth: it just takes some getting used to. Africa is not easy to love, but it’s growing on me.

By the way, I never would have taught middle school or come to Namibia if it wasn’t for Peace Corps. And I’m thankful, because it’s an experience I would’ve been missing. It will teach me how to teach better for any level, and it will help me to recognize problems I would’ve overlooked otherwise.

Changes I didn’t foresee in myself, but they’re there:
Appearance—farmer’s tan and blonde tips, longer hair.
Becoming a kid person. (What the crap?)
Becoming a good hostess: always offering something to drink, making small talk, wanting people to come over to my house all the time.
Becoming totally open to any random person staying with me at any time. Also, open to calling up totally random almost-strangers to stay with them.
I let go of my former life. I can’t even salsa dance in my room anymore because its too painful for my psyche. I let go of Spanish. I know I’ll get back to it. Even if it takes a few years.
Not even caring if a cockroach gets in my bed anymore.
Liking things from the U.S. that I never really liked when I was in the U.S.: peanut butter, incense and candles, action movies, chips, corny sitcoms, commercials, etc.

One of the major lessons I learned in Grad school was how to be happy alone. After living with a college roommate in my room for 4 years, and living at my Mom’s house during breaks, it was a hard lesson to learn. Mainly because I had too much work to spend much time with friends.
Anyhow, by the end of grad school, I knew how to be alone and happy. But it’s causing problems now. I doubt I’ll ever be integrated in the community if I keep being ok being alone. I mean I could live the 2 years perfectly content going to school during the day and watching movies at home during the afternoons and evenings. But it wouldn’t really be Peace Corps. I think in these two years I’m going to learn how to be with people again.

Ten years ago I was in high school and wanted to be a missionary for the Southern Baptist Church (hah!). Now, I’ve lived in Southwest VA, Tucson AZ, Mexico, Costa Rica, and Namibia, and I speak Spanish. Seriously now, where is my life taking me?

THINGS I LIKE ABOUT NAMIBIA:
Sunsets/sunrises
I can see mountains outside my window.
People have absolutely no inhibitions when it comes to dancing or singing. It’s wonderful.
Being in touch with nature.
Being able to walk to work.
People pick up hitchhikers! Awesome!
Tribe mentality—people care for their own.
Plurality, understanding multiple languages
Emphasis on family
The way people on the street will help me without me asking them for help.
Namibians are not afraid to ask for things. (This is also annoying).
Greetings must be said to everyone. (This is also annoying sometimes).
The way people turn up unexpectedly and will help you with whatever you are doing. (This is also annoying sometimes).
Goats. Baby goats are so damn cute. (They are also annoying sometimes).
Wild animals everywhere.
Clotheslines.
Don’t need a tool for anything.
The way PCVs share things and bond.
I look like crap, and people still think I’m beautiful.
Body hair is really no big deal here.
Kids. (They are also annoying sometimes).
Otjiherero music.
Some people still wear traditional dress.
Weather is normally hot. Yes!
Night skies are amazing. You can see stars right down to the horizon. You can see the milky way.

Saturday, May 3, 2008

More craziness from Namibia

PROPOSAL
What a weird Saturday. Anyhow, this baster farmer named Mr. Ochizen comes to the school in D-town to see me, like I’m an exotic animal at a zoo. Then he invites me to his farm. I say ok with the full intention of never going or seeing him again. Then, the next day, he comes to my house to see when I am free. I say Saturday. Then he comes the next day. I say Saturday. Then I talk to the teachers about this 75 year old, toothless, Baster (mixed ancestry) farmer to see if it is safe to go out to the boonies with him. At first, they say ok no problem. Then they say no as he is not well-liked in D-town. Or anywhere. They say Mr. Ochizen (the teacher—no relation) needs to go with me if I go to make sure I am safe.
Then baster Mr. Ochizen (BMO) comes again and I tell him that teacher Mr. Ochizen (TMO) wants to come. BMO is NOT happy. I say I’m not going unless TMO goes.
So, all three of us go to the farm.
We see goats (like I don’t see enough of those every day?). Woo. Then the men eat meat and drink cool drink. I just drink cooldrink and pass up the goat meat. Then BMO proposes to me. And he was serious. I said, “No, I never want to get married,” which is pretty close to the truth. Especially when the proposer is a 75 year old toothless goat farmer living in Namibia who barely speaks any English. My rejection of him “will not affect our friendship.”
Then we go back to the village. Bizarre.

GARDEN
Later on some girls from the location came to visit me and helped me plant a garden. The last time I dug a hole in the ground was when I was about 8 years old and wanted to dig an underground playhouse. I spent all summer on that thing and only got about a foot deep. So, I’ve been putting off the digging aspect of my garden. But with the help of the girls we finished the entire thing, planting and all in one hour! I figure if I don’t learn how to garden here, then I won’t learn ever, since everyone is a farmer here. Plus the soil is SOOOOO rich from all the animal shit. I throw my veggie trimmings over the fence for the goats to eat (which they don’t!) and the seeds from a butternut squash sprouted and now I have a huge squash plant right outside my fence. I’m hoping the onions, carrots, and green beans I just planted will grow with equal vigor. And the goats ate my tomato plant. Mofos.

CRAZINESS KIDS FACEJust had a 13 year old girl drop out of 7th grade because she is pregnant. This sucks. In a worst case scenario, she was raped (perhaps by a family member), got pregnant and HIV at the same time, will no longer go to school, so will not have a legal means of income to support her child, her parents are drunks, so she will end up selling herself and getting reinfected herself with HIV to feed her baby and die before the child’s 10th birthday. The child will be an orphan living in bushes asking people for handouts to survive. God, that is grim. But probably pretty close to the truth.
Also had a 13 year old learner steal alchohol and hide it in the hostel garden. Was planning big party over the weekend. I didn’t touch alcohol til I was 18.
How can all this happen, you ask.Where are the parents? Well, many of them are dead because they contracted HIV and AIDs. Others live far from their children, and children are in boarding schools where they basically run free. There is a hostel mother and father in charge of some 50 kids a piece. Other parents live with the kids but are drunk and passed out all the time they wouldn’t know the difference if they had kids. Other parents are living with the kids and just let them run free. Other parents are actually disciplining their kids (WOW!).
I have one girl who has come to ask me for food every week. I give it to her because I know her parents drink all the money away and don’t have any food. If there is any country where serious AA classes are needed, it is this one. If we could just eliminate poverty we could eliminate so many problems: health issues, orphans, alcoholism, teenage pregnancy—all these things through various manners we could eliminate. Once again I’m overwhelmed and I don’t know where to begin or whom to begin with. It’s only 2 years to try and make some kind of difference—actually a year and eight months now. I think it won’t be much.

END OF TERM
Enough said. Class average in Grade 6=42 D. In Grade 7=50 C.

ANIMALS SEEN ON DRIVE TO/FROM DORDABIS:
Kudus, Baboons, Oryx/Gemsbok, Giraffes, Jackals, Meercats, Hartebeasts, Springboks, Warthogs, Bats, Goats, Sheep, Cattle, Donkeys, Horses, Dogs, Cats.
Jefta said he saw a Wildebeast, but I’ve yet to see that.

DRAMA IN D-TOWN
Next term I begin my secondary projects, of which I have many many ideas. I was talking to Mr. Ochizen, who is the only one in this town who gives me a picture of what’s really going on. My naïve “oh I’m a foreigner” has been sucessful with everyone except him. But at least he tells me the real deal.
So here’s the drama:
My supervisor used to teach at DPS a few years ago until she was moved to a different school to be HOD. She applied for the position of principal once the other principal died. TMO, the school board, and others opposed her and wanted someone else to be principal, but the ministry of education decided it would be her. Thus, there has been drama between TMO and Sup ever since. It doesn’t help that she takes things personally, and TMO has good ideas. So that’s why I’ve tried to stay out of it by being somewhat distant to all the teachers. Its funny, but I can tell they are both trying to recruit me to their side. Speaking of values, I am totally on TMO’s side—he really cares about the kids and the community (that’s a huge surprise for a Namibian male). But in terms of what others can offer me (rides, ability to do school projects), the other teachers have the say. So that’s at the root of the divide between the teachers.
NOW FOR THE COMMUNITY DRAMA:
There are several groups here: The counselor, Commuity leaders (TMO, white dude who owns everything, people in the location who don’t like outsiders, people in location who want best for community.
So, the counselor, a bit of a male chauvinist pig, thought his wife was screwing TMO (I got this story from TMO, no consensus that he was). They had a fight. Then the counselor fought with the white guy about land. Originally the white guy was going to sell the land the squatter’s settlement was on to the government, but he didn’t want a flood of people from other parts. The political party SWAPO wanted to bring in Caprivians and Ovambos from the north to D-town so they could get more votes and overpower the people currently in town. So the deal fell through. Now, the counselor is bitter enemies with the white guy, and is still not liking TMO.
Then there is the old pastor, who recently left, who wanted the school to be under his domain. This is ridiculous.
So how this plays out now:
The school can’t have a garden because the pastor won’t lend the school any land, and the hostel is currently paying for water, and the hostel is church-owned, so they won’t let the school have any water.
Nothing can be done to better the community through the normal ways of doing things, through the counselor and government because he won’t help TMO’s crowd. The teachers don’t do anything or can’t do anything because they don’t like being called outsiders, and the community called them out for mismanaging school funds.
Then I get thrown into this mess. Thus far I’ve managed to avoid taking sides. But since I will be soon getting involved with the community then I will.
Apparently TMO made jokes before I came that he was going to hook up with me. He has no intentions of doing that now, as far as I can tell. But he keeps saying things like that to upset my supervisor deliberately. So now, the teachers are trying to keep him away from me: Example: A couple of weeks ago I was chatting with him getting all this good news about the town, when twice a teacher came to interrupt us and say she needs her marks.
If I have to take sides I will. It will be on the side of the kids.

VACATION!
Finally a much, much needed vacation has come! The first weekend I spent in Windhoek with Megan. Then Ashley came from Opuwo and we spent a few days submitting passport applications to the department of home affairs. (Two of her kids were sponsored to go to summer camp in America).
Then we headed to Okahandja for a few days and hung out with Ruth. Later, went on to Usakos for a day to hang out with Nick.
We went sea kayaking in Walvis Bay and saw seals, dolphins, flamingos, and whatnot (all of which I can add to my wildlife seen in Africa list). Then we went back to Usakos to chill for a week. Then went back to Swakop to go sandboarding.
Hitchhiking east of Windhoek is SOOOOO easy. Sometimes we didn’t even have to wave our arm, people stopped within 10 minutes usually, and it was free! People we rode with: cute afrikaaner in really nice car who didn’t talk at all, not cute afrikaaner in afrikaaner shorts in run down car who did talk, german family in really really nice car, pastor from South Africa who was going see a profetess in Dune 14, colored family on vacation, and afrikaaner young couple who invited us to their braai.
Sandboarding: SOOOO we hiked to Walvis Bay with crazy pastor who asked us when was the exact moment we met God and almost didn’t let us out of the car. Then we searched for sand boards in Walvis Bay and NOWHERE sold any, so then we searched for cardboard, but stores weren’t giving it out. So then we walked to Dune 7 (7km) in sand along a deserted road. It took forever. Then the presidental motorcade passed us, strangely enough, and didn’t even stop to pick us up. We finally reached the dune and were exhausted, but we climbed it anyways. It was fun. Then we got a ride back to Swakop and went out to dinner with Julia and Danielle in Swakop.
I LOOOVE being with Americans again. Who know about all this craziness that goes down in Namibia.